So why Pitcairn ? It is the most remote populated island in the world. It is 5,700 km from South America and 5,000km from New Zealand. It is a British Overseas Territory and a nation in its own right. The population is about 50. The vast majority are descendants of the nine mutineers and their Tahitian wives. Very few people are allowed to set foot on Pitcairn each year. Passengers of the Aranui are among the few who have that opportunity.
I got up early, went to the observation Lounge on deck 9, grabbed a coffee, sat down and waited for Pitcairn to appear on the horizon. I was not disappointed. It came out of the clouds like Brigadoon. I imagined the excitement on July 3, 1767 a 15 year old James Pitcairn first spotted it on the horizon. Following naval custom, it was named after him because he was the first person who sighted it.
Just after sunrise, we dropped anchor in Bounty Bay.
Pitcarin has had a dark history from it’s first settlers to today.
Fletcher Christian and a group of sailors mutinied aging Capt. William Bligh oh HMAV Bounty. They set Bligh and his supporters adrift. Bligh eventually made it back to Britain. The mutineers, with several Tahitian men and women sailed around what is now French Polynesia. Eventually they found Pitcairn Island and decided to settle there in January 1790. They stripped the ship and set it on fire so they could never be discovered or sail away. Their fate was unknown for over 18 years. The location of the island was recorded incorrectly. They were discovered by accident by an American whaling ship in 1808.
During this time many social issues arose including drunkenness, debauchery and even murder. John Adams, the last original mutineer had a bible and began instruction. This brought peace and order to Pitcairn. A Seventh Day Adventist missionary founded a mission on the island and converted everyone. There is a church on the island.
We were driven up the aptly named Hill of Difficulty on an ATV to Adamstown, the capital and only city on the island. The residents had set up a market so we could purchase souvenirs. They are a very friendly people who were proud and happy to show us their country.
While waiting for a walking tour to start we met Sid. He is the newest immigrant to Pitcairn. Originally from New Zealand, he moved to Pitcairn in January. He had the only Can-Am ATV on the island. We booked him immediately for an island tour. It is a very comfortable 4 wheel drive ATV with a bench seat. We had great conversations with him. He took us all over the island.
Here are some scenes from our morning tour of the island.
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He talked about the challenges of moving to Pitcairn. While welcomed by the majority, he was threatened by some men. They accused him of wanting to steal their jobs. Everyone is employed by the government. Everyone earns $10.00 per hour regardless of the job whether it’s landscaping, building, admin work at the museum etc. A 20 year New Zealand army veteran, he is not easily intimidated.
He told us he lived on the island for three months before making the decision to move. Pitcairn has a history of sexual abuse and pedophilia. A significant number of the males on the island were convicted and jailed. He asked the police chief who lived and was a police officer on the island what she would do if she had to arrest her brother, nephews etc. she told him she swore an oath to uphold the law and she would do her duty. As a military officer, he too swore an oath. Her commitment to duty showed her integrity and that was the deciding factor for him. He sold everything in New Zealand, packed up his household goods in a container and moved. He wants to start a scuba diving shop on the island. His last possession, his dive boat in New Zealand is scheduled to be on the next supply shipment.
After the morning tour, we were treated to lunch in the town square with the islanders.
After lunch we went to the museum. Sid is the curator. We chatted and hired him to take us to the second landing on the other side of the island. It was built to allow ships to unload incase of bad winds and weather. It is not part of any tour. Roads are actually bad trails and very steep stitable for travel by ATV.
Tim Johnson, travel writer, wanted to come along. We didn’t have room in the cab so he decided to ride in the box, on a box. That lasted 2 km. He had to walk back.
As you can see, they built a beautiful paved road away from the pier but it ends in a bad trail. The trails from the wharf were VERY steep and bumpy! Makes you wonder how they would transport any freight or people to Adamstown.
Many residents joined us on the Aranui for dinner. They sat at a reserved table which was unfortunate. It would have been great to have them sit with us so we could get to know them better.
I missed getting a picture of the Bounty anchor but managed this one.
On the second day the cruise ship MSC Magnifica cruised into Bounty Bay with its 2,000 plus passengers for a two hour visit.
They were not allowed to disembark. Pitcairners took their longboat out to the ship and set up a market for souvenirs while the ship sailed around the island. After they circumnavigated the island, the Pitcairners headed back in a longboat.
In mid afternoon, we sailed away, after having and experience what few are privileged to experience.
We sailed away with the most valuable of souvenirs, only available to those who have actually set foot on the island.
